https://twitter.com/dieworkwear/status/1825106421215789449
Alain Delon passed away tonight and I’m again reminded that we’re losing a generation of men who possessed an incredible sense of style. But what made Delon’s style so extraordinary? Let’s explore.
To be sure, one can’t discount the fact that Delon was extremely handsome, talented, and famous. All of these qualities added to his magnetism. However, many men today have these qualities, but not Delon’s style. Why is this?
It’s partly because Delon always looked comfortable.
He looked comfortable because his clothes weren’t suction fit. Check out this blue silk suit in the film Purple Noon. Notice:
— No straining — Buttoning point at waist — Jacket ends halfway from collar to floor — Trousers are not overly slim
This differs from a lot of tailoring nowadays, which just looks tight. Trousers are often overly slim and low-rise; jackets don’t cover the wearer’s seat and can barely be fastened. You can’t look elegant if you don’t look comfortable.
A slightly fuller silhouette introduces another important quality: romance. There’s very little romance in David Beckham’s slim topcoat. But Delon’s topcoat has broader shoulders, a voluminous chest, and wide lapels. The coat shifts and flows with him. Very romantic.
The quality of his tailoring was also better. Look at how his lapel rolls as it gets close to the buttoning point. This is the result of skilled pad stitching and ironwork (both done by hand). Most lapels nowadays are flat like they’ve been put through a panini press.
Delon also just possessed better taste. He knew that black shirts should be casual, so he wore things like black polos or black button-ups made from casual materials. In the film Purple Noon, he wore a black linen button-up with tan-colored jeans.
By contrast, a lot of men nowadays are just wearing black button-up shirts made from dressy materials like cotton poplin. Has a very divorced dad at the club/ Express prom night vibe. Delon looks better here in a black polo because it’s obviously casual.
He also knew that, if you’re going to get a shirt monogram, the tasteful placement is just below the left rib, not your cuff. This way, it remains hidden when you’re wearing a jacket, rather than being flashed in everyone’s face as you gesticulate.
A shirt should also fit just full enough to allow for comfortable movement without looking sloppy. If the placket is straining, it’s too tight.
We’ve talked a lot about tailored clothing, but what about casualwear? A lot of casualwear nowadays is basically t-shirt and jeans, or a polo shirt with chinos. The aesthetic is pretty flavorless.
Delon knew that good casual outfits often require a jacket, and clothes that tell a story. Here we see him wearing two workwear outfits involving a Lee Storm Rider and leather motorcycle jacket. Now the outfits have aesthetic direction.
Even when he’s not wearing a jacket, the outfit has something going on. This is a batik-dyed cabana shirt with a soft terry texture and camp collar. The style is a little 1960s, but it’s at least a little more interesting than a basic dress shirt plus chinos.
Delon even incorporated texture into his knitwear. This looks better than the plain, smooth merino v-necks and crewnecks you see today. The texture adds visual interest.
Even if you incorporated all of these tips, you will not look as good as Delon, as he stood with the likes of Cary Grant and Gary Cooper. But you may look better. In tailoring, this means paying attention to fit and silhouette.
In casualwear, it means having a sense of aesthetic direction (the casual outfits here are mostly workwear). Also knowing how to incorporate textures and wearing a jacket when you can.
Consider how your outfit comes together like a sentence. It should have meaning. A blue sport coat with a black henley makes no sense. But a blazer with grey flannel trousers has meaning; so does an olive bomber jacket with jeans.
RIP to Alain Delon, who was a great actor, a stylish man, and a friend to animals.
Oh, one more: Alain Delon playing with cats in Scorpio (1973)
