https://twitter.com/dieworkwear/status/1792236204815220870
No one will see the label inside your clothes or know who made the fabric. So, it’s more important to develop an eye for what looks good than to rely on brand names. In this thread, I will show some good spring/ summer fabric for tailoring. https://t.co/Z31LEeElro
Since woolen yarns hold heat, spring/summer clothes are typically made with worsted fabrics. That means that they don’t have a fuzzy nap (i.e., they’re not hairy, like tweed). Without a nap, a strong pattern can have very vivid lines, which often look ugly.
For this reason, a full suit in a patterned spring/summer fabric can be difficult to wear. One solution is to go for a very subtle pattern in low contrast, such as puppytooth, five-point star, or a hairline weave. These are always unimpeachable.
You can go for a slightly bigger pattern, but it helps to stay close to very classic patterns, such as glen check. And again, keep the contrast between the yarns lower. This Mersolair linen suit looks a bit muted in photos, but believe me, it’s striking in real life.
Alternatively, you can go for solid-colored linen or cotton. Or seersucker, which comes in the traditional blue-and-white stripes or more tonal variations if you’re worried about looking too preppy. The navy seersucker suit in the fourth picture has a nice texture.
If you want to wear a spring/summer pattern, it’s easier to do so as a sport coat than as a suit. Again, we are treading on delicate territory here, as many spring/summer patterns are ugly. But I think these look nice. Fourth is a little wild (madras)
Alternatively, you can go for texture. Wool-silk-linen mixtures often have a bit of texture and sheen (if you don’t like sheen, choose wool-linen). Since we’re back at solid colors, it’s easier to go crazy with the color here (pic 3). You can also do raw silk (pic 4)
It’s hard to choose good spring/summer fabrics. If you are buying ready-to-wear, just put the garment on and see how you like it. If you are buying custom, go with someone who can guide you (last two pics are of Jonathan, the director of Alan Flusser in NYC. He has good taste).
